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Ascot:
Accessory; a wide scarf or necktie knotted so that its
broad ends are laid flat upon each other. Often pinned together
with a pearl stickpin and usually worn with a cutaway tuxedo.
Today all ascots are banded for ease of use. |
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Band
Bowtie: Accessory; a bowtie with an adjustable band
that wraps around the collar of the shirt and connects with
a clasp. All rental bowties are now banded. |
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Banded
Collar: A formal shirt, with banded collar only, no
wing-like appendages. Worn with fancy button covers. Usually
features a wide pleated front. Also referred to as "mandarin
collar."
Besom
Pocket: On a coat, a very narrow piping above the
pocket slit. Can be satin besom or self (same fabric as
coat) besom, with flap.
Button
Cover: Ornamental accessory device worn at the neck
of the shirt, clipping onto the button of the collar.
Available in many styles. Usually worn with a mandarin
or crosswick collar shirt.
Button
Stance: On a coat, the position where the coat first
buttons on the chest. Usually defined as a standard, low,
or high button stance.
Collar:
On a coat, the turned back material that falls around
the back of the neck. Can be of satin or same material
as the coat.
Comfort
Collar: On a formal shirt, a manufacturing feature
that allows for more comfort at the neck of the shirt.
The button of the collar is attached to a small tab that
slides, giving more range in movement.
Crosswick
Shirt: A very modern formal shirt with a crossover
spread collar. Features a wide pleated front. Usually
worn with a fancy button cover; a tie cannot be worn with
this shirt.
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Cuff
Links: Ornamental accessory device of two parts joined
by a shank, chain, or bar for passing through buttonholes
to fasten shirt cuffs. |
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Cummerbund:
Accessory; a broad sash worn over the waistband of the
pants. Pleats are worn with the opening facing up. |
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Cutaway:
A formal coat also known as the morning suit. Usually
a dark grey coat worn traditionally in the morning for
weddings. Now can be worn anytime during the day.
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Double
Besom Pocket: On formal coats, two narrow pipings in
satin or self material above and below the slit, without
flap. |
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Double
Breasted: A tuxedo coat which overlaps itself in the
front. Often adorned with four or six buttons. |
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Double
Breasted Vest: A vest which overlaps itself in the front.
Often adorned with four or six buttons. |
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Euroband
Tie: Accessory; a fashion tie, much like a 4-in-hand
necktie with an overstated knot. Available in many colors,
worn with a high cut vest. |
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Flap
Pocket: On a coat, a standard pocket. Common on traditional
coat styles. |
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Floor
Level Peak Lapel: On a coat, a type of peak lapel
in which the peak, rather than pointing upward, runs parallel
to the floor.
Formal
Shoes: Patent leather or vinyl shoes with a glossy
finish. Today's selection offers a variety of styles featuring
insets and textured materials.
4-In-Hand
Tie (Necktie): Accessory; a necktie fastened with
a slipknot, a man's regular necktie. Usually worn with
a stroller coat.
French
Cuff: A wide shirt cuff folded back and fastened with
a cufflink. Found on 100% cotton retail shirts.
Full
Back Vest: Accessory; a vest which has a full back
panel sewn in.
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Full
Dress Tails: A coat also known as the tailcoat, being
short in the front and long in the back. Very formal. Once
available only in black, now available in all colors. |
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Gorge:
On a coat, where the lapels start and the collar ends.
A very low gorge is down the middle of the chest.
High
Cut Vest: A vest which has more buttons on the front,
causing it to close higher and closer to the collar. Worn
with a bowtie, euroband 4-in-hand tie, or button covers.
Lapel:
On a coat, the turned back material that falls around
the front of the coat. Can be of satin or the same material
as the coat.
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Laydown
Collar: A shirt similar to most men's dress shirts,
a regular fold over style collar. Usually with pleats. |
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Mandarin
Collar: A formal shirt, with banded collar only, no
wing-like appendages. Worn with fancy button covers. Usually
features a wide pleated front. |
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Notch
Lapel: On a coat, a notch is cut out between the collar
and the lapel. |
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Peak
Lapel: On a coat, the top of the lapel is pointed sharply
upward and outward. |
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Pique
Shirt: A white shirt with a waffle-like texture on the
front panel and cuffs. Worn with matching vest and tie.
Most formal. |
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Pique
Vest: A white vest with a waffle-like texture. The most
traditional vest; often worn with white tie and tails. |
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Shawl
Collar: On a coat, there is no change from the collar
to the lapel; it is a rounding continuation of the collar.
Spats:
Short formal fabric shoe coverings worn over the instep
and reaching just above the ankle, usually fastened by
a strap under the foot and buttons on one side. Once used
to protect shoes from mud, now a high-fashion accessory.
Stroller:
Matching tuxedo length coat to the cutaway. Worn with
contrasting striped trousers, pearl vest, laydown collar
shirt, and 4-in-hand tie.
Studs:
Accessories; small ornamental buttons mounted on short
posts for insertion through an eyelet next to the shirt
button.
Tuxedo:
Specifically used to refer to a standard length coat,
single or double breasted with satin lapels. Generally
used to refer to all men's formalwear.
Vents:
On a coat, an opening in the lower part of a seam;
a slit in the garment. Tuxedo types: center vent, non-vented,
side vented.
Waist
Coat: A coat also known as the Spencer or Eton. Resembles
a full dress without tails. Worn with matching or contrasting
trousers.
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Wing
Collar: Also known as stand up collar. A formal shirt,
usually with a pleated front that has wing-like pointed
appendages. |
Shirts
